Issue 01 A travel journal MMXXVI

Anti pode

Six places that reward the long way round — islands, plateaus and coastlines where the map runs out before the road does.

Begin the descent
Destinations
06
Time zones
11
Permits
03
Direct flights
00
01

The premise

On going the long way

Some places are not destinations. They are corrections to the way you see.

The best journeys are rarely the most efficient ones. They are the ones with an extra connection, a permit office that closes at noon, a ferry that runs when the sea allows it. Friction is not a flaw in the itinerary. It is the itinerary.

We are interested in edges: islands that kept their own species, kingdoms that measure wealth differently, deserts where it has never rained. Places that ask something of you before they show you anything.

This is a journal, not a catalogue. Six entries, written slowly, for people who would rather understand a place than collect it. No rankings. No bucket lists. No ten-best.

02

Six edges

06 destinations
01 --:-- 12.5°N 54.0°E
SocotraYemen

Dragon's Blood

An island that separated from the mainland so long ago it kept its own flora. Bottle trees, frankincense, and limestone cliffs that end in water the colour of ink.

  • Nov–Mar
  • Guide + permit
  • Indian Ocean
02 --:-- 62.0°N 6.8°W
Faroe IslandsDenmark

Weather as Landscape

Eighteen islands stitched together by ferries and subsea tunnels, where grass grows on the roofs and the fog arrives like a decision someone else has already made.

  • May–Aug
  • 18 islands
  • North Atlantic
03 --:-- 27.5°N 90.4°E
BhutanHimalaya

Measured in Forests

A kingdom that charges by the day and spends it on trees. Monasteries above the cloud line, valleys without traffic lights, and a constitution that requires the country to stay more than half forest.

  • Mar–May, Sep–Nov
  • Guide required
  • SDF applies
04 --:-- 23.9°S 69.3°W
AtacamaChile

The Driest Silence

Salt flats, dawn geysers, and a night sky so clear the Milky Way throws a shadow. Some weather stations here have never recorded a single millimetre of rain.

  • Apr–Jun, Sep–Nov
  • 2,400 m
  • Acclimatise first
05 --:-- 78.2°N 15.6°E
SvalbardNorway

North of the Last Tree

Polar night for one season, midnight sun for the next. Beyond Longyearbyen the rules are simple and absolute: carry a rifle, or do not leave town.

  • Feb–May, Jun–Sep
  • Visa-free
  • Polar bear country
06 --:-- 0.5°S 130.0°E
Raja AmpatIndonesia

The Centre of the Coral World

Limestone karst scattered across reef that holds more marine species than any comparable area on Earth. Above the water: almost nothing. Below it: everything.

  • Oct–Apr
  • Liveaboard
  • Marine park fee
03

Field notes

Three entries
04

Practical

Before you book

Getting there

None of these places is a direct flight, and that is rather the point. Expect two to four connections, one domestic hop that cannot be booked online, and at least one wait that depends on weather rather than a timetable.

When to go

  • SocotraNov – Mar
  • FaroesMay – Aug
  • BhutanMar – May, Sep – Nov
  • AtacamaApr – Jun, Sep – Nov
  • SvalbardFeb – May, Jun – Sep
  • Raja AmpatOct – Apr

What we carry

  • Layers for four seasons in one day
  • Cash, in small notes, always
  • Offline maps downloaded before departure
  • Printed permits and bookings
  • Nothing that needs a signal to work
05

Go quiet.

One letter a season. A place, a route, and the things we got wrong. No noise, no affiliate links, no urgency.